Costa Smeralda; Porto Cervo & Golf di Aranci

Porto Cervo & Golf di Aranci, Costa Smeralda, Sardinia

At the crack of dawn the winds picked up to a force 8 inside Olbia marina. Gusting about 40 knots. We were tucked up snug inside our cabin listening to the whistling wicked winds whip through the wires and masts inside the marina. 

Even if the wind had been favourable to take Silver Paws to Porto Cervo, we still can’t afford to moor in Porto Cervo marina, so we have booked the hire car for a second day to go and check it out. 

Porto Cervo was built by a developer in the 60’s. It makes itself exclusive by being exclusive, mooring fees are €320 per night for our 38.5ft yacht. To put that into perspective our most flashy berths so far, Monaco and Portofino were €85 and €105 respectively. An average berth in a marina is about €65 for a night in high season.

Take a wander along the promenade, flanked by a row of super yachts on one side and Harrods, Bugatti, fake grass and shiny diamonds on the other. Then meander across the bridge to the boutiques and the view, back across the bridge and up around the top of town where we found our favourite shops in Porto Cervo; Vespe Vintage with an accompaniment of snazzy vintage scooters in great colours (In another lifetime Captain would’ve taken home the vintage Moto Guizzi. I went for vintage baby blue with a sidecar). Next door houses one of the best interior design shops I’ve ever been in Rossana Orlandi. We'd have to sell our boat to be able to buy anything but gazed adoringly at the designs and left bursting with inspiration and ideas.

Luxury is king here and although we couldn’t afford anything in Porto Cervo except lunch, we liked it very much. The architecture is admirable. The buildings blend into the flow of the landscape, although a bit dated there is not a single building in the whole town that is convenience architecture, every shop, facility and home is in theme. The theme is officially* ‘Flintstones with money’, Wilma and Betty were both shopping in Cavalli.

We spent the rest of the afternoon getting lost around the streets, towns and bays of the Gulf di Aranci. Went for a swim and sunbathe at Porto Liccia, you have to fight for a patch of sand big enough to lay your salty head down but it’s so pretty. Its all very pretty, clean and immensely pleasant. 

Captain sniffed out a brilliant beach restaurant Fino Beach. It’s a beach club cafe until 8p.m so we had fresh juice, followed by Gin’s laying on the white bean bags in the sand. They had wifi so we were able to wish our mates back home big Hi'5 on the birth of their wee little boy. Cheers little Max, welcome to the world! 

As the sun went down they offered us a flute of bubbles and set up a table for us at the waters edge. We treated ourselves to the chefs surprise four course meal. There was lapping water, candles, stars, good food and wine and my handsome Captain. It was rubbish.

Charlie x 

*Not actually, but it might as well be.